Day 1
It’s been a while since I’ve been on one of these big adventures. Already through what is the most stressful part for me – getting to the airport. Well, that and planning. I’m so jealous of people who get excited about that. Ok, maybe not but I’ve found that it does make traveling a lot easier to have done some of the leg work beforehand. I’ve been corresponding in French with some of my Airbnb hosts and chuckled when I found myself mumbling to myself in French at home. I in my infinite wisdom chose to start my vacation around one of the biggest Muslim holidays of the year – Eid al-Adha. But I’m thinking that might end up being kind of cool. I asked my first Airbnb host what he does for it and he extended an invitation to join his family for the celebration, which I’m inclined to accept. This is what I love about Airbnb. But first to get there. There is an agitated child behind me in the waiting area at the airport that I am hoping will not be anywhere in my vicinity.
Day 2
The only way I can describe the never-ending journey here today is in French. “Quelle journée…” followed by “oh la laaaa…” I hurried to get to the airport in Minneapolis because I had read a notice that it could take as much as three hours to get through security. Only to have it take 45 minutes. Hmmf. The flights through Paris and Casablanca went smoothly although I have to wonder, do we really need that many meals and food in them? There’s only so much a guy can eat in a 24 hour period! When I got to Casablanca is when the fun started. Literally the worst customs/passport control line I’ve ever gone through. Probably partially because of the holiday tomorrow but also because of this knack people have for completely disregarding lines and moving ahead of like 11 people. And then minutes later doing it again. I was surprised when what I am assuming to be an imam? Some sort of religious figure behind me started calling people out but what surprised me more was that they actually listened to him! Most of them did. I could hear the words for American and French being used as the people spoke agitatedly in Arabic and I started to wonder if maybe they were talking about /me/ as the imam guy wasn’t letting them move in front of me. Maybe I’m wrong about that but it seemed possible. Then some guy told me that the ATM machine and train lines were outside the airport. So I went out to the strangest sight of people cordoned off from the doors to wait for loved ones. I felt like a rock star for a hot minute. I ended up realizing that I had to go back into the airport, which meant yet another line (the guy in the military outfit who spoke Arabic and only limited French indicated I should just cut in line, which I couldn’t bring myself to do. Damn you, Minnesota!!). Got through that. Still didn’t understand the directions and had to ask again. Finally figured it out and got a train ticket to Rabat, including a train change. All in all was at the airport for nearly three hours. Another couple of hours on the train and I was getting really tired. The Airbnb host fetched me at the train station and started pouring wine and we chatted for hours in French. Great conversation. Reminded me of when I lived in France after college and would get together with the other assistants and hang out in one of their apartments in Lille talking all night, drinking wine and having snacks. Am going to the Eid ceremony tomorrow.
Day 3
What a great day. That experience of going to the Eid al-Adha ceremony was really cool. I’m so glad my Airbnb host was open to inviting me. Everyone was so nice and welcoming. One thing people do here that I love is they shake your hand and then immediately put their hand over their heart afterwards. The family seemed so very close and I loved how they made a special effort to greet each and every person there – including me – when they arrived or say goodbye when they left. Everyone seemed so excited to see literally everyone. So this ceremony… it is symbolic of Abraham’s sacrifice of his son and involves a live sheep. I’ll let you figure out the rest in your mind… it’s kind of like their version of Thanksgiving revolving around a specific animal that ends up on people’s plates only this time, you actually witness that happening. It wasn’t as alarming as I was fearing it would be and I appreciate the respect for the animal and that it is fully used. That being said, I don’t know that I need to witness that again but was glad I had the opportunity to experience this part of their culture. And I must admit that the dinner was quite good later. They also had an art form to it all so everything happened very rapidly. Afterwards, we hung out and chatted for the rest of the day and drank Saharan tea, which is made a special way that involves pouring and repouring the tea into glasses. I was told that the froth that that created was the key to it all. It was delicious but honestly, I think it’s really meant just to have something fun going on as conversation continues and perhaps to give a reason for people to stick around – not that they needed one. Fun ritual. They pour the tea holding the heated pitcher a couple feet above the glass as they pour it in. Conversation drifted between Arabic and French oftentimes in the same sentence but I think that they were probably speaking a little more French so I could follow along. I was able to have conversations all day long in French, including with a French couple who were also there. So nice to have that experience after the French flight attendant on the Air France flight over whom I couldn’t understand at all. The houses I’ve been to have the most awesome design. Really amazing tile work. Also got to see the city a bit today as we drove around and it is so interesting. Really different from any other place I’ve been to. Interesting to see all the signs in Arabic. More of a military presence than I’ve ever seen, too. Morocco is a kingdom that is ruled by a king and his family and everyone I’ve run into thus far seems to really like him, although I’ve only been to the country’s largest city and the capital city. I wanted to take pictures today at times but it didn’t seem respectful so I refrained. I plan to finally get out and take some pictures tomorrow. I’ll probably start taking a bunch going forward. Going to try to get up at a decent hour tomorrow but am running a major sleep deficit. Where do the hours go??
Day 4
Had one of those days today where things didn’t quite seem to work out or they just worked out differently than I had been planning. I got up fairly early after not being able to get to sleep til after 4 – after multiple days of next to no sleep! Perhaps it’s all that delicious tea I’ve been drinking. I had so badly wanted to go to this 14th century madrasa that was in neighboring Salé only getting there was damn near like figuring out the Riddle of the Sphinx. I had to piece together multiple maps and reviews on various sites that would mention what it was near without giving the address or give a street name and nothing else, which threw google maps for a loop… somehow I managed to find it and felt such a rush of satisfaction only to realize that it was closed 
Day 5
Well I finally experienced a medina and I’ll have to admit it was very intimidating at first. The owner of the riad where I am staying informed that the medina in Fes dates back to the 900s. Picture a maze the size of the city center in a large city full of thousands of tiny alleys in which people are hanging out, trying to get your attention, trying to sell you stuff, trying to steer you to another alley where there is a family owned business, etc. In the midst of this chaos are children running and screaming and playing kickball. There are smells, and gorgeous art and architecture and beautiful things for sale and interesting foods and oh why not, let’s throw in a few people tearing through on a scooter or motorcycle. It’s an introvert’s nightmare. I’m pretty good at maps so I thought my chances were probably better than most but I’ll confess. I don’t think I was in there for even a full 10 minutes before I was completely lost. My main goals were to see a couple madrasas, maybe this famous tannery, take in the sights, get some pictures, etc. Every guidebook tells you to be weary of people who want to be your guide and sure enough within literally minutes I had this kid who was very good in many languages and weirdly an excellent conversationalist following me around. I was really suspicious of him and was figuring out how to shake him without being a complete asshole. But you know what? In hindsight, I was actually glad to have his assistance. That’s something they don’t tell you in those books. Yes he steered me to certain shops I probably wouldn’t have gone to otherwise and steered me a little off my intended course but I never felt pressured to buy anything I didn’t want and, as this was my first time there, he helped me to find things much more quickly than I would have otherwise. He did tell me the madrasa was closed but I pressed on that I wanted to see it and sure enough it wasn’t. But without his assistance, it would have taken me forever to find it. Also it was a learning experience. He left when I went to get lunch and I did give him a tip I felt was well earned. After lunch, another man tried to assist but I told him right away that I didn’t need a guide and didn’t have much cash on me (this was true). So at the end he pointed me in a direction and asked for a tip and I said, sorry like I mentioned, I don’t have any cash. All I’m doing is taking pictures. And that was that. We shook hands and I moved on. I did learn also that if you keep pressing about directions, they’ll first try to sell you something or steer you somewhere but if you say things like, “I just ate. I’ve already been to a place that sells that.” etc, they’ll give you directions but the directions will only be for the next two or three segments and then you have to ask someone else again. Towards the end of the day I was actually starting to get the hang of it and noticed signs, sparse as they were, that I was completely blind to when I was initially overwhelmed by the chaos. It was a relief to be out of there by the end of the day, though. As I was getting back the calls to prayer were being announced. This happens multiple times a day. Five, I think. Basically all the various mosques announce over a loudspeaker things like “God is great. There is only one god and that is Allah. Come pray…”, etc. I still don’t know what I think of that. I’ve heard people say they find it to be beautiful and I’m trying to look at it that way. It feels ominous to me though, I must admit. Maybe because it’s something that’s foreign to me and I’m one of those “spiritual but not religious” types. My first Airbnb host here mentioned how Christian churches use bells to call the followers in and the thinking for Muslims was to just speak directly to the people. I think using words changes things, though. When one hears a bell and that call doesn’t apply to you, you can just think of it as a pretty sound. Interesting, nonetheless. I’m glad to be able to experience it!
Day 6
One of the things I love so much about traveling, besides learning about new cultures and lands and ways of living life, is the interactions with so many people I would have never had the chance to have had otherwise. And the interaction doesn’t have to be monumental or anything. Yesterday, I was in a madrasa and saw a couple taking pictures of each other so I asked in French (I could tell they were speaking something other than English) if I could take a picture of them together for them. I heard them talk again and recognized Spanish so I switched over to my lame spoken Spanish, took their picture then we chatted for a few short minutes and then the husband took a picture of me. Something small but I love moments like that. More so than seeing a famous tourist spot, actually. And if I’m lucky enough to be able to spend more time hanging out, all the better. I immensely enjoyed hanging out with my first Airbnb host, got to chat over breakfast yesterday with the owner of the riad where I’m staying (which was fun because I had already been corresponding with him, asking a million questions), and got to spend today wandering around Chefchaouen with a new friend from Turkey who was on the same tour. Come to find out we have a lot of similar interests and an appreciation for the same sense of humor. I was going to skip out on going to Chefchaouen because I had already taken a day from Fès to stay another day in Rabat so that I could witness the Eid ceremony and still do things I wanted to do there as well as to hang out a bit longer with my new friend. And the trip to Chefchaouen would take literally the whole day. But I was told that I really needed to see Chefchaouen and I figure I will see yet another medina when I get to Marrakech. And who knows when I’ll be in this area again so I really wanted to check it out. It’s a city at the foot of a couple very large mountains that is largely painted blue. At first I just thought it was some tourism gimmick but actually this started in the 1400s when Jewish people were fleeing the Spanish Inquisition. It’s very pretty and I was glad I made the trek. In fact, the trek itself was very scenic despite the fact that it is a long drive each way. Traveling purists pooh pooh the idea of taking a day trek from Fès, as if only they know how to truly experience a place correctly. I’ve found myself at odds with them a number of times on this trip and it’s made me realize that people just need to travel in a way that is right for them and that they feel satisfied by. Hmm. Seems symbolic as I type it. One thing I have been very amused by on this trip is how many people have told me that I look Moroccan!! I never knew! I’ve also been guessed to be French (many times, especially when I’ve spoken in French with them) or other European nationalities but never American. Yes! I love that!
Day 7
Made it to Marrakech (French spelling for Marrakesh). This was the connection I was most fearful of missing. Because the flight was at 7h50, the riad suggested leaving around 5h30 and they were insistent on giving me my complimentary breakfast at 5h00, which meant that I had to get up by 4h30. Me. Up before even the sun. But weirdly I managed. Woke up a little beforehand, even. The flight was so easy although their security was definitely different. I remembered as my bag was going through the machine that I had a bottle of water in it. I told the operator and he just waved me off and pushed the bag through. I didn’t take my belt off, either which required a pat-down by the very good looking young agent. I was willing to pay the price. On the taxi ride to the riad, I saw the aftermath of an accident involving a motorcyclist running into a car. After having spent a full day here I must say that I’m not at all surprised. Whereas Marrakech has much larger alleys than Fès for the most part, it fills that gap with scooters and motorcyclists zooming through at full speed. I’m not even exaggerating. They honk at everything in their way but don’t slow down the slightest bit. And just when you finally think you’ve figured out the spacing to not have to be constantly stepping out of their way, here comes a full-on van zooming down an alley that even the motorcyclists have to squeeze through. Crazy. I went to Jemaa el Fna Square this evening and took in as much chaos as I was up for. Really fun music being played and I love the smells of all the spice shops you pass by. That’s something that pictures don’t convey. It’s interesting being an empathic person in an environment like this. I want to take it all in and maybe participate a little but I’m constantly trying to keep out of people’s way and I don’t want to get sucked into some swindle that might cause them to think I’m interested or taking advantage of the music or entertainment without paying. I’ve heard they pursue people for this. Sadly, I’ve learned to ignore literally everyone who is yelling out to me. Sometimes what they have said has actually been helpful and I’ve realized in hindsight. But at least 9 times out of 10, it isn’t. So the odds are much better that you’re going to gain by blowing all of them off. It’s kind of funny because I’m sure it’s effective on some level but all getting in my face and trying to sell me something does is make me want to walk away to another place that will allow me to ponder calmly. Really, the markets are interesting and I’m glad to have seen them and even interact but it’s not the main thing that draws me to these places. Actually, honestly, one day each in these markets is enough for me. What I like are the madrasas and the food and museums and the sounds and smells, etc. Haggling’s not my thing and honestly, I feel like these people probably should get more money than they end up getting. I don’t like this idea that nothing is a success unless you’ve somehow gotten away with getting something for way less or next to nothing. Seems soulless to me on some level.
Day 7 – Musée Boucharouite
Marrakech – Musée Boucharouite. This may be one of my all-time favorite museums. It is a collection of “rag rugs” made from scraps taken from the floors of textile and fabric and other such establishments that are woven into the mesh of plastic bags. Poor Berber women from the Atlas Mountains created these pieces of art for cheap to use and sell. The background information indicates that men oftentimes did not want them displayed because it symbolized lower class status but they were a source of pride for the women. They were so interesting and beautiful and the museum is nicely laid out. With nice accentuating art and terraces. And it’s a welcome place of calm amidst the chaos of Marrakech
Day 8
Headed out to the desert. Spent the night in a hotel in a mountain gorge in the middle of nowhere in southern Morocco and watched the shadows on one side of the mountain go down while the light got brighter above the top off the opposite side until the nearly full moon made its appearance. Really cool to see. I’m without Internet a couple nights but will have some pretty awesome pictures of the Atlas Mountains, this gorge I’m referring to and the desert when I return to Marrakech.
Day 9
Loved the trip to the desert. I never realized Morocco had such complex, interesting topography. Of course almost none of the pictures do it justice. The mountains are insanely large. Funny to think that such large mountains have always been there but I never even knew they existed. I also loved the interesting mix of people that made up our group – two female friends from Brazil, one who splits her time between there and India and another who now lives in NYC, two Spanish Basques, a couple from Turkey, another couple from Poland, a handful of people from the UK, a Chinese guy from near the Chinese-North Korean border, and a guy from Japan. Such fun and interesting conversation. I spoke to one of the Brazilian women in French and the other in English and they spoke to each other in Portuguese. I had mixed feelings about the camel ride. They don’t seem well treated. One of the people I spoke with said she heard that they like living as they do but I’m always a little skeptical when I hear a person saying that. They don’t appear to be allowed much freedom. When the guide leading my camel (I was in the front of our group) walked away for a short bit, the camel went off the trail. I was worried it would end up tumbling into one of the many large pits but instead it walked over to some grass and started eating. So they do have their own desires of what they would do if they were allowed to do what they want. Also a camel is a very large animal that causes one to have spread one’s legs waaay apart for quite a while. Walking up the large sand dune to see the sunrise was interesting after riding for a while. We saw the sunset, then ate and listened to traditional Berber drum music. I laid on a mattress out in the open rather than in my tent because it was too hot in there and I drifted in and out to the drums. Then we got up at 5:30 and rode in the moonlight – probably my favorite part. Then found a high spot and watched the sunrise, which was equally amazing. So cool when you catch that first glimpse. And because it’s on the horizon at that time, you can actually look at it for a while before it pierces through and becomes too bright. I went to snap a picture and of course literally at that very moment, my phone went dead. Wah, wah. Luckily one of the Brazilian women was with me and she got a cool photo of my profile with the sunrise in the background that she said she’d send when she got the chance. It’s funny the camaraderie that is developed between people in such a group. I was a bit sad to say goodbye when I got dropped off near my riad.
Day 11
Well it’s that time again. The time when everyone else seems to say, “I was ready to come home.” I never am but am grateful for having the opportunity, time, resources, and health to make such a journey. This trip held a lot of firsts for me: first trip to Morocco, first trip to Africa, and my first time in a Muslim country. It was a wonderful experience that has opened my eyes to different ways of living life and helped me to also appreciate some of the ways things are done where I live that maybe I hadn’t. I admittedly was a little nervous taking this trip not knowing what to expect but I find that as I spend time in places and situations that I’m not used to, I adapt and get used to it. Best was being immersed in Muslim society and seeing people there as largely having the same struggles as well as things that make them happy. As a gay man I could never live in a society where people are not allowed to be their true selves but I was able to appreciate a certain closeness I saw between people that seems lacking in the West. And the beauty of Islamic art blows me away, as did the Moroccan landscape, which greatly surprised me. Not to mention the music I heard here and there. Got to spend just a quick overnight layover in Paris last night but it was enough to remind me of why I love that city so much. Now for the 9-hour flight back to Mpls…
Day 12
Southern tip of Greenland from my flight back. I was also able to see large sections of rural northern Québec and was really shocked at how many very large bodies of water there were with islands in them literally everywhere. Blew me away. Makes sense why it’s so rural. Then I looked around the plane and realized that I was one of only three people around me that had the window open. It stayed that way for literally the rest of the flight. Made me wonder – is everyone else just not curious? Or are they following orders as we had been requested by flight crew hours before to have them shut? I’ve never understood what I call “closed blinds” people. I like to see what’s going on outside.
Scott Bilodeau's Meandering Babbles 